Don't panic when touring! Tips for utilizing a puncture repair kit for tubeless tires

As long as you ride a motorcycle, one of the problems you cannot avoid is a flat tire. Most on-road bikes in recent years use tubeless tires, which behave very differently from tube tires in the event of a puncture, as well as in terms of repair methods. It is easy to become impatient when you suddenly encounter a flat tire, especially when touring or on your way to work, but if you understand the structure and features of tubeless tires, you will be able to deal with the situation calmly. Here are some points you need to know in order to get the most out of your puncture repair kit.

Tire problems that go beyond "sticking

When most people think of a flat tire on a motorcycle, the first thing that comes to mind is a case of a nail or screw sticking out. In fact, the most common cause of a flat tire is a piece of metal, wood screw, or other foreign object that has fallen on the road and pierced the tire. Tires are in contact with the road surface while carrying a load while driving. Therefore, when a rider passes over a sharp foreign object, it can stick into the tread surface without the rider noticing. It is also a "common" pattern for the rear wheel to get a puncture when the rear wheel steps on a foreign object bounced up by the front wheel. Foreign objects are not the only cause of punctures. Cracks in the tread surface due to aging, air leaks from the bead area, wheel corrosion, and damage to the air valve can also cause a loss of air pressure. However, most of the typical punctures encountered while touring are puncture wounds caused by nails, screws, and the like. The trouble caused by this "stuck foreign object" can be manifested as different symptoms for tubular tires and tubeless tires. The biggest difference is that it is sometimes difficult to notice a puncture in a tubeless tire. Tubeless tires have a rubber tube inside the tire, and when a nail or other object pierces the tire, the foreign object penetrates the tire and makes a hole in the tube. The space between the tire and tube is then rapidly deflated, and it is not uncommon for the tire to become un-rideable in a few seconds to a few dozen seconds in some cases. On the other hand, tubeless tires are airtight between the wheel and the tire itself. Therefore, even if a foreign object gets stuck in the tire, the foreign object itself acts as a plug, and air leakage may be minimized. In fact, a flat-headed wood screw, for example, may be buried in the tread pattern and not be easily seen, and may even be discovered after several hundred kilometers or more. This is a major advantage of tubeless tires and contributes to improved safety. However, "difficult to deflate" does not necessarily mean "safe. There is a risk of air leaking out if a foreign object stuck in the tire moves slowly, and there is also a risk of decompression at once if centrifugal force pulls it out. There is also the possibility of damage to the internal structure. Tubular tires and tubeless tires are completely different in the way they lose air, but in any case, it is always important to check the condition of a foreign object when it is found.

Pulling a foreign object out in a hurry can be dangerous.

The moment you find a nail or screw stuck in the tread surface of a tire, many people reflexively want to pull it out. With tubeless tires, however, that action may make the situation worse. This is because, as explained earlier, the foreign object may act as a plug to suppress air leakage. By removing the plug, it is quite possible that the vehicle will not be able to run on its own, even though it was in a runnable condition before. Therefore, the decision to "not pull the plug until you are ready to repair it" may be effective. Especially when you are out of town and do not have repair equipment or a puncture repair kit at hand, it is one way to move at low speed without pulling out the plug until it is ready to be repaired. Of course, there are exceptions depending on the condition of the foreign object and the way it sticks, but basically it is a good idea to maintain the status quo until just before the repair work.

Flat tire repair kits are a touring rider's best friend

A "puncture repair kit" is a must for tubeless tire bikes in case of a puncture while touring. With a tubular tire, you have to drop the bead of the tire from the wheel, pull the tube out from the inside, and apply a patch to the hole in the tube. Also, a punctured tube tire will have zero air pressure, so even if the hole in the tube is patched, the tire cannot be inflated without an inflator. In contrast, a puncture in a tubeless tire can often be handled from the tread surface without removing the tire from the wheel, making it possible to repair it on the road. In addition, depending on the size of the puncture hole, the air leakage may be slow even after the foreign object is pulled out, so the tire can be repaired with some air remaining in the tire. If the puncture repair kit comes with an air cylinder, you can inflate the tire at the repair site. With this in mind, we will introduce the procedure for repairing a puncture on the road, such as when touring. Most tubeless tire repair kits on the market use a rubber plug or sealant that is pressed into the hole to seal it.

1. The basic procedure is as follows: 1 . pull out the foreign object 2. prepare the hole with a reamer 3. insert the sealant 4. cut off the portion protruding from the tread surface 5. refill with air At first glance, it may seem simple, but there are actually several important tips, and understanding these tips will greatly affect the success rate of the repair.

Do not be reserved when working on the bottom hole; boldness is the key.

One of the most important steps in puncture repair is the preparation of the lower hole. After the foreign object is removed, a reamer is used to shape the hole. However, beginners tend not to want to make the hole larger than it needs to be. As a result, the reamer may not pass through the hole sufficiently to complete the work. However, this is a common cause of failure. The sealant that seals the puncture hole is pushed into the hole while applying strong pressure. If the hole is too small, the sealant will not penetrate the hole, the insertion tool will cut the sealant, and the insertion tool will not pull out. Fiber reinforced sealing material is tough, but the insertion tool also has sharp edges that will break if excessive force is applied. Therefore, it is important to ream the hole to the proper diameter by inserting and withdrawing the reamer fully without hesitation. Repeated back-and-forth movements of the reamer will file the cross-section of the hole, which will also help to spread the rubber cement (adhesive).

Rubber cement is an adhesive and a lubricant, so using plenty of it is the right thing to do.

Many people think of the rubber cement that comes with the repair kit as just an adhesive. In reality, however, it has another important role. That is its lubricating action. When a generous amount of cement is applied to both the pre-cavity hole and the sealant, friction during insertion is reduced. As a result, the following advantages can be obtained: ・Easier insertion of the sealant and less tearing ・Improved adhesion. On the other hand, if the amount of cement applied is too little, the resistance during insertion will increase, and the sealant may break in the middle of the hole even after the hole has been prepared. It is not uncommon for repair failures to be caused by "poor preparation" and "insufficient rubber cement. The key is to use cement sparingly and to make sure that it is well distributed both in the pre-hole and in the sealant. .

Cut off any sealant that protrudes.

After the sealant is inserted, the excess material will protrude from the surface of the tire. Although it is possible to drive on the road without removing the excess sealant, it is essential to cut off the protruded portion with a knife or nippers. If it is left too long, it may be pulled out or pulled off when it comes in contact with the road surface. However, there is no need to cut too deeply. Just a small amount of the tread surface should remain. The heat from driving and deflection of the tire will gradually blend in and naturally adjust the tire. After the work is done, be sure to fill the tire with air, and then pour water from a plastic bottle over the repaired area. If no air bubbles appear, the emergency repair has been successful.

Correct knowledge reduces puncture problems.

Tubeless tires are safer than tube tires because they do not lose air rapidly if a foreign object sticks in them. That is why it is important not to rush to pull out a nail or screw if you find one, but to first check the situation. And when using a puncture repair kit, the shortcut to success is to follow the basics: widen the bottom hole firmly, use plenty of rubber cement, and dispose of excess sealant. In addition to a puncture repair kit with an air cylinder, a rechargeable air compressor sold by various equipment manufacturers should be kept on hand to calmly deal with sudden problems while touring. The puncture repair kit also contains some sealing material, so you can help not only yourself but also your companions who have a puncture. A puncture itself cannot be completely prevented. However, with the right knowledge and proper preparation, a puncture is not a problem to be feared, but one that can be dealt with.

Go to  (7)